Ghana Part 3 - Eden

We said goodbye to the humid coastline and ventured north.  After only a few short days with my travel companions it became evident that the world appeared differently through my eyes than it did through theirs.  We were greeted by a hand-me-down fleet at the public bus station in Cape Coast.  We road in pools of our own sweat and our butts were numb within the first hour of the five hour ride up Swiss-cheese roads to Kumasi.

Kevin, Lindsey and Julia were blown away that there was a public bus station where buses left on time!  The numbness and sweating is to be expected.  I strive to have patience like this when life is not perfect.

Kumasi is a fascinating city filled with rich Ashanti culture, art and delicious street foods, which if Lindsey’s mom asks we didn’t eat!  In Kumasi the place to see is the market - we had heard it was intense.  When we arrived we discovered the market itself had long ago graduated beyond the market confines and ballooned into the surrounding streets!  The market and radiating streets all blurred together in a mosaic of yams the size of a baby, every African country’s soccer jersey, dismembered animal parts and leather sandals.

The leather sandal making was the coolest!  As we walked through the narrow market alleys the landscape evolved from market to factory.  Young men carved away at hunks of rubber.  The rubber was then hammered on to wood and the soles took shape.  The straps were fashioned and attached.  The assembly line ended and sandal vendors took over. We walked 100 yards and witnessed firsthand the creation of Ghanaian sandals from creation to sale.  This blew my mind and I love how simple, local and resourceful it is.

The next morning we pieced together a series of cab and tro tro rides until we eventually arrived at Abono, the closest town to Lake Bosumtwi.  Our cabbie tried to rip us off so on principle we hiked the last 5km to the Rainbow Garden Village.  We were the only ones there.  Sweaty and tired we showered and ordered food and lots of beer.

When the sun rose, I was wide-awake.  I drank two Nescafes and reflected on our journey thus far.  It was so peaceful.  It may have been the ‘Adam’ and ‘Eve’ labels on the outdoor latrines but the Rainbow Garden Village was felt like a little slice of Eden.  I felt so safe and at home at this place.  Runt kittens chased strange bugs, a goat bleated and a donkey brayed.  Young men fished with nets off boats made of driftwood and the rest of the world disappeared.  

Ghana Part 2 - Castles

Kevin, Julia and Lindsey arrived on the 3rd of January and our adventures together had begun!  

We spent a few days in and around Cape Coast visiting colonial slave castles and forts, swimming in the massive surf and sharing the last two years of our lives over a few rounds of Club beer.  For me the castles beautifully balanced striking architecture and a horribly haunting history.  These structures are gorgeous; the real estate boasts dramatic views over the Atlantic and the white washed walls create a stark contrast to the brightly colored fishing boats beached on the shores below.

Cape Coast Castle

Elmina Castle

It’s hard for me to wrap my head around the fact that from the 15^th-19^th centuries millions of Africans were funneled through these walls and shipped to South America, Europe and the Caribbean. When Europeans introduced textiles, horses and other western goods, the coastal African tribes bought the prized possessions on credit.  Indebted, these Africans started capturing other Africans from inland tribes and repaid the Europeans using humans as a currency.

Trade Routes

On one of our last nights a group of Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs) from Liberia showed up at the same beachside hostel we were staying at.  With great amusement Kevin, Lindsey and Julia taught me how to be a PCV.  I got the high-level lingo, and typical highs and lows PCVs used and experienced and I was IN.


"Hi my name is Andrew - I'm a Returned PCV from China."
"Yeah, after I graduated I went to Chengdu to help rebuild schools and teach children after the earthquake in 2008."


"It was very rewarding but disheartening dealing with all the Chinese bureaucracy."
Poor Kevin and Julia, having just meeting me for the first time, had NO clue who the hell I was.  This experience was kind of fun and incredibly challenging.  I realized two things:
1) I'm really good at lying.  I did have two years of actual experience living in China to draw on and I was able to sew it all together surprisingly seamlessly.
2) I really don't like lying.  Even though we expected this ruse to last one night we ran into one or more of the Liberians in almost every city we visited!  Suddenly I had to fall back into character or admit my lie. I kept all of these guys at an arm's length so they didn't get to know who I really was.  And in turn, I never got to know who they were.  Sorry if you read this, guys!  Hope we cross paths again one day - I'll tell you the whole truth... and the first round is on me!

Ghana Part 1 - Jesus

Take a chance on "yes."

In the summer of 2009 I found out that my wonderful friend, Lindsey, was moving to The Gambia as a Peace Corps volunteer.  The Gambia is a tiny country enveloped by Senegal in Western Africa.  Around that same time I was hired at UBC, a university enveloped by Vancouver, in Western Canada.

For two years I had promised Lindsey that I would visit her.

How? I'll figure it out. 

When? Someday.

Well two years went by fast - 'someday' had not shown its face and I still had not 'figured it out.'  I said YES - that was the easy part. Following through - now that is the challenge for me. I am a big fan of having my cake and eating it too.  Ma and Pa Haas taught me nothing is impossible, so why not go all out?!  It was time to take action.

Through a series of email conversations with Lindsey we figured out the only time I could take enough time to make a 10 hour flight and 8 hours of jet-lag worthwhile was during the winter holidays.  Also, I wanted to see Ma and Pa for Christmas, of course.  So, I put it my perfect trip out to the Universe: One week in Vermont.  Two weeks with Lindsey in West Africa.  A few phone calls and optimized use of frequent flyer miles, and It worked!  By fall 2011 I had my ideal trip planned.

Vancouver > Vermont > Accra and back

We realized in our scheming that by the time I would arrive in Africa Lindsey would have moved out of her village, Kerr Jarga Jobe, and will have said goodbye to her host family and friends.  She did not want to go back and have do it all over again.  So we decided to meet in Ghana where her parents volunteered in the Peace Corps from 1982-1984 - 30 years prior to our arrival!  Our mission, should we choose to accept it, was find the Green Compound in Bolgatanga, 800+km north of Accra, the capital city where we planned to meet up...   

I spent Christmas in the always beautiful Vermont and then hopped on a flight just in time to celebrate the New Year in West Africa!  There was only one small hiccup…Lindsey, Kevin and Julia's Air Nigeria flight left two hours too early and without them.  I suddenly found myself alone in a city of 2 million people with three full days to do ... something.  This trip was my first to Africa and I merely knew a few historical facts and my geographical location.  I was supremely unprepared... and I loved it!

In Accra my mornings and evenings were spent wandering aimlessly through the city streets, and when the sun was highest in the sky, I took sheltered naps on my bunk.  The heat absolutely floored me.  On New Year’s Eve I literally had nothing to do and the only two other guests in my hostel ordered pop with dinner...  SERIOUSLY!?  It’s New Year’s Eve!  Where is the Champagne!?  I was feeling a bit down and extremely anxious to find anything to do.

During that morning’s exploration I found that Accra Sport Stadium was hosting something called "Crossover," a massive New Year’s Eve sermon, from what I could figure.  After finishing my beer I jumped in a cab and made my way to the World Cup stadium to see what it was all about.

I walked under the mammoth gates and through throngs of opportunistic vendors selling every food and trinket under the sun.  I zigged and zagged up the stairwell and joined my 30,000 new gospel-singing friends.  For 4 hours it seemed every single person in this stadium jumped up, danced, sang, and rang in 2012 praising Jesus!  Most. Unique. NYE. EVER!

Accra Sport Stadium

This was the most bizarre and haphazard start to my trip. I laid my head down on my pillow that night awestruck, a little perplexed and very present to the fact that I was in Africa.  I had said yes to this trip, taken action and flown across the world, but until that moment laying in my bunk I felt like I was drifting through a dream.  My African reality hit and it was going to stick around for the next two weeks.

The Next Adventure

First off I owe you an apology - I never followed up with a final post on how the Death Race ended up.  David and I kicked ass - we completed in 45 hours in tenth place and when we realized there were still tasks to be completed, we finished those too. We couldn't bare to say we completed the Death Race with out completing the Death Race.  That's just lying.  It was definitely the most challenging two days of my life and I know that I would not have wanted any other man next to me than David.  To read about my experience check out this article written up by UBC Trek Magazine.

None of this, of course, could have been possible without the unwavering support of my parents, Suzy and Brian, who spent endless restless hours wondering if their son was still alive somewhere in the storming mountains.  Coming back into camp and being greeted by a cup of hot tea, a pile of food and a warm hug helped me get through those tough moments.  "Just another hour and I'm back to food and family," I'd tell myself.

"Whats next?"  This is the question I've been asking myself every day for the past six months.  I've been searching for a new adventure and challenge.  This fall I restarted a regular yoga practice.  I recognize and value the peace that comes with this practice.  Calm, quite, bliss, happiness and a strong body.  I myself look at those adjectives and have to make an effort to check my ego at the door.  I am typically logical, practical and know whats best ALL THE TIME.  Or so I thought...

I will be traveling home to Burlington, Vermont for Christmas with my family and friends.  Just before the new year I'm headed off to Accra, Ghana.  My dear friend Lindsey Green has been living in The Gambia in West Africa for two years.  And for two years I have told her, "oh yeah, I'm going to come visit...soon."  Well her two years are nearly up and guess who hasn't been to Africa to see Lindsey?
Now I have a ticket, sore arms from a half dozen immunizations and a date with the local Ghanaian Consul to get a visa!  My procrastination has come at the cost of not seeing the village that she has made home and changed lives in.  We will however have the chance to visit Ghana, where her mother and father met and volunteered in the Peace Corps many moons ago.

I love to travel, and whats more I love having intention to my travel.  I don't know what to expect and want to go into this experience with an exceptionally open mind.  The intention for my trip is to do yoga with Lindsey everyday.  No matter where we are or how bloody hot it is, yoga will be done. I'll post next in 2012 on my adventure in Ghana.

~Love and Gratitude~

The Countdown Begins!

At long last the Death Race is here!  Its Wednesday today - I just got back from a run around my old neighborhood in Burlington, Vermont, cranked the music and am ready to take this race on!  

I made the commitment a little over 6 months ago to my friend, David Harwood, suggested I do this crazy race with him.  I said, yes, paid my entry fee and started training.  Today I'm packing up my gear and sharpening my maul... hoping that I am able to sleep through the night without the nightmares I've been having all week.

Last night we all received an email stating there will be a noon parachute folding seminar on friday followed by a closed door meeting with the Freemasons at 2pm.  Sign in starts at 3 and the race begins at 6pm.  

Our list of mandatory items includes:

Goggles

#2 Dixon-Ticonderoga Pencil

Hand Drill with 1/2 in drill bit

Hand Saw

Tape Measure

Axe or Maul

10' Section of Climbing Rope

Carabiner

One twenty dollar bill

Two one dollar bills

Over the past few weeks I have not blogged but I have been working my butt off!  Well actually it seems to get bigger - I'm feeling rather bootylicious at the moment.  I've been hiking with 50+lb packs through Vancouver's North Shore mountains, running Kits beach with the largest logs I could muster, running to work and doing my very best to eat well.  It has all paid off - I'm in the best shape of my life and have no doubt that I'm going kick this race's ass!

UBC Alumni Affairs was kind enough to help me with my first Death Race task: "Get an article written about you completing the race."  Read it here: Alumnus to Compete in Extreme Endurance Race. They will be doing a follow up interview in August.

If there is cell service in Pittsfield, my parents will be updating via my twitter account @andrewjhaas on race day(s) so you can follow my progress via twitter or facebook.  

Thank you all for your support, following my blog and pushing me to run faster, lift more and most importantly get my head on straight!  

See you on the other side!

-Andrew 

Easter Weekend on The North Shore

"Be Quiet. Quiet the mind. Pay attention to the beauty that surrounds you."
-Mark Allen
Six-Time Ironman Triathlon Champion

Vancouver's beautiful North Shore played home to the majority of my Easter weekend.  Full of friends, food and forests, it has been one of the most memorable and satisfying Easter holidays in recent Haastory...

On friday morning I met up with two friends, Dan and his roommate Jenny for the Grouse Snowshoe Grind!  As we climbed we played 'name the 35 countries in the Americas.'  They rocked this - me, not so much!  I veered off at the top as they looped back towards Grouse, working on Africa's 46.

Jenny, Dan and me at the top of Dam Mountain

I followed a fellow hiker's trail to Goat mountain and on as far as I could on the horse-shoe shaped ridge (see map).  From the north arm, I could see the Lynn Valley below.  I paced the snowy ridge for 45 minutes trying to find the safest way down.  I finally settled on a chute that I was pretty sure went the whole way down... otherwise it would be a very unpleasant hike back up the near vertical snow field.

Looking back up the chute

The red line shows my path - 14km

Slowly the white snow gave way to green algae-covered boulders and tangles of mangled trees from last season's runoff.  I periodically checked over my shoulder just to make sure that all the snow I just descended hadn't suddenly melted and was going to wash me away!

The green river bed

After a slow and careful decent I emerged onto a wide strong river.  This was the river that I could see from the peaks, far above.  With no human trail to be found I bushwhacked my way along the west bank of the river until ... wait, what is that?  There's something moving over there... its.. its a couple making out.  I emerged from the woods directly across the river from them - they were unfazed.  I cross the river 20 yards up stream and walked past them - they remained lip-locked.

Lynn Valley River

Saturday was filled with a light run, lots of food and rest.  

Sunday was perfect.  My neighbor Conor and I joined Matt and his beau Preston (very cool dude) for brunch at Sophie's diner.  We then made our way to the North Shore where we stopped by YYoga for an amazing flow class where seemingly every joint in my body let loose and I sweat up a storm - this will be a far more regular practice moving forward.  Matt's sister, Steph and her husband Doug invited us all over for Easter Dinner post yoga.  We had a delicious meal and I truly feel blessed to have such an amazing extended family in Vancouver. 

Easter Monday was also a day off for me so I took advantage of the free time to try my feet on the Baden Powell Trail.  I started out from Deep Cove and ran/hiked until I was sweat and rain soaked, shivering and hungry.  About 4 hours after I started I popped out at the base of Grouse Mountain - roughly half way and 24km conquered!

To quite my mind on these excursions I listened to Mark's words and started focusing on the beauty that surrounds me.  This Province and the people that I love make it easy to keep a clear mind when every inch of my body hurts.

Lost

I set off to hike the Baden Powell trail this morning.  

For the life of me I could not find the trail head at the Horseshoe Bay end.  I wandered up and down the highways, battled pricker bushes and crossed streams, but the trail head never showed itself...

After a bit I just started to run.  I ran along the highway with swarms of road bikers headed north.  After a few km it seemed my only option was to start up route 99 to Squamish.  Thats not a smart place to go for a jog, so I turned toward the ocean. 

Running along the top of the highway dividers

I stumbled upon the the CN Railway that stretches from Vancouver all the way up to Prince George, BC.  So I continued my jaunt from Horseshoe Bay up to Lion's Bay via rail!

Somewhere along the CN Railway

At Lions Bay Marina I was met with another rail traveler.  Unfortunately for me, it was a train.   I peeled off the track, ran up to the highway and hitched a ride homeward.

The Train

At the on-ramp for Lions Bay I stuck my thumb out and the first car to come by picked me up.  Shirley, a late 70 something ball of fire regaled me with her plans to drive into town and find a new sudoku book, how she was getting a new puppy soon and how a super senior pass at Whistler is a whooping $140!  We weaved down the sea-to-sky and into North Van and over to Park Royal.  It was still early so I ran some more.

Back across the Lion's Gate Bridge, through Stanley Park and finally over the Burrard Bridge back into Kits, I made it home.  After a failed attempt at an early spring hike I still managed to get a good 20+km run in, meet a new friend and have an excuse to demolish a Michael Phelps-sized breakfast and take a 3hr nap!